Atami and the Izu coast: hot springs, sea cliffs and the first cherry blossoms
Atami is a hot spring town built on steep hills above the sea, the gateway to the Izu Peninsula. After years as a faded retro resort it is fashionable again, with renovated inns, cafés and one of Japan's finest art museums on the hill. Further south, the Izu coast has volcanic cliffs, quiet beaches and, every February, Japan's earliest cherry blossoms.
Atami: the town by the sea
Atami's streets climb from the bay, with steam rising from the hot springs between the buildings. There is a long sandy beach, a lively old shopping street near the station, and fireworks over the bay several times a year. Many inns open their baths to day visitors, some with views across the water.
The MOA Museum of Art
On the hill above the town, the MOA Museum of Art holds an outstanding collection of Japanese and Asian art, including national treasures, in a building designed for its views of the sea. Its famous screen of red and white plum blossoms by Ogata Korin is shown each year around plum season, in February.
The Jogasaki Coast
About forty minutes south, the Jogasaki Coast is a stretch of black volcanic cliffs shaped by lava and waves, with a walking trail along the top and a suspension bridge over a sea inlet. It is dramatic in any weather and especially beautiful when the Pacific is rough.
Kawazu cherry blossoms
Further down the peninsula, the Kawazu cherry trees bloom pink along the river from early February to early March, weeks before Tokyo. The riverside festival draws big crowds at weekends, so a weekday and an early start make the visit far more enjoyable.
By car, and the price
The Shinkansen reaches Atami in about forty to fifty minutes from Tokyo, ideal for the town alone. The Izu coast is another matter: trains are sparse and the sights are spread out, so a car turns a hurried day into an easy one. A ten hour day from your Tokyo hotel, Atami and the coast, is from ¥157,500 for the Toyota Alphard with up to four guests, tolls, parking and fuel included. Your chauffeur can speak English, Italian, Spanish, French or Japanese, at the same price.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Atami from Tokyo?
About forty to fifty minutes by Shinkansen, or about an hour and a half to two hours by car.
What is there to do in Atami?
Bathe in the hot springs, walk the beach and the old shopping street, visit the MOA Museum of Art, and see fireworks over the bay on festival nights.
When do the Kawazu cherry blossoms bloom?
From early February to early March, weeks before the cherry blossoms in Tokyo.
Do I need a car on the Izu Peninsula?
For Atami alone the Shinkansen is enough, but the Izu coast has sparse trains and spread out sights, so a car makes the day much easier.