Chichibu and Nagatoro: mountains, rivers and festivals two hours from Tokyo
Chichibu is a ring of green mountains in western Saitama, close enough to Tokyo for a day but far enough to feel like the countryside. It is known for a hillside of pink flowers in spring, a river gorge you can ride down in a wooden boat, an old mountain shrine, and one of the great festivals of Japan in December.
Hitsujiyama Park and the shibazakura
From mid April to early May, the slopes of Hitsujiyama Park are covered with shibazakura, moss phlox, planted in waves of pink, white and purple with the mountain of Buko behind. It is busy at its peak, especially at weekends, so an early arrival makes a big difference.
Nagatoro: the river and the rocks
About thirty minutes from the town, the Arakawa River runs through Nagatoro between flat layers of rock called Iwadatami. Traditional wooden boats take you down the gentle rapids, from spring to late autumn, and the gorge turns red with maples in November. There are rafting tours for those who want more speed.
Mitsumine Shrine
High in the mountains, Mitsumine Shrine is an old shrine among giant cedars, guarded by wolves instead of the usual foxes or lions, and famous for its colourful carved buildings. It is an hour's drive into the forest from Chichibu town, a road with few buses.
The Chichibu Night Festival
On 2 and 3 December, the Chichibu Night Festival fills the town with huge lantern-lit floats pulled through the streets, drums and winter fireworks. It is one of the three great float festivals of Japan and part of a UNESCO listed tradition. Hotels fill months ahead, so a car back to Tokyo after the fireworks is the practical choice.
By car, and the price
The Seibu limited express from Ikebukuro reaches Chichibu in about eighty minutes, which is easy for the town alone. By car it is about two hours, and the car lets you join Hitsujiyama, Nagatoro and Mitsumine, which are spread out, in a single day. A ten hour day from your Tokyo hotel is from ¥157,500 for the Toyota Alphard with up to four guests, tolls, parking and fuel included. Your chauffeur can speak English, Italian, Spanish, French or Japanese, at the same price.
Frequently asked questions
When do the shibazakura bloom in Chichibu?
At Hitsujiyama Park from mid April to early May.
How do I get to Chichibu from Tokyo?
By the Seibu limited express from Ikebukuro in about eighty minutes, or about two hours by car.
What is there to do in Nagatoro?
Ride a traditional wooden boat down the Arakawa River past the Iwadatami rocks, from spring to late autumn, or go rafting.
When is the Chichibu Night Festival?
Every year on 2 and 3 December, with lantern-lit floats and winter fireworks.