Kusatsu Onsen: Japan's great hot spring town, three hours from Tokyo
Kusatsu, high in the mountains of Gunma, is one of the most famous hot spring towns in Japan. Its centre is a steaming field of hot water channelled through wooden troughs, the smell of sulphur hangs in the air, and the water is strong enough to have a reputation for healing. It is a long way from Tokyo, which is exactly why it feels so far from the city.
Yubatake, the hot water field
In the middle of town, thousands of litres of hot spring water a minute pour through wooden channels, cooling before they are piped to the inns, and leaving yellow-green mineral deposits behind. It is lit up at night, when the steam glows over the square, and it is the heart of every walk around Kusatsu.
The yumomi show
The water comes out of the ground too hot to bathe in, and the traditional way to cool it is yumomi: women stir it with long wooden boards in rhythm while singing a folk song. At the Netsunoyu hall beside Yubatake you can watch the show several times a day, and sometimes try the boards yourself.
Bathing in Kusatsu
Sainokawara, a park of hot streams at the edge of town, has one of the largest open-air baths in the area, surrounded by forest. Many inns also open their baths to day visitors. The water is very acidic and hot, so keep baths short. Bathing is naked and separated by sex, you wash before getting in, and some baths still refuse visible tattoos, so check before you go.
Day trip or overnight?
Kusatsu is about three hours from central Tokyo by car each way, and the train and bus take about as long. A day trip is possible but long. The best way to enjoy it is one night in a ryokan, with dinner, an evening walk to the lit Yubatake, and a morning bath before the drive back, perhaps through Karuizawa.
By car, and the price
By car you go door to door, with no change of train and bus, and you can stop at Karuizawa on the way. A long day trip is from ¥157,500 for ten hours with the Toyota Alphard, with extra hours at the hourly rate; an overnight stay is quoted as a two day trip, chauffeur accommodation included. Tolls, parking and fuel are included, and your chauffeur can speak English, Italian, Spanish, French or Japanese.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Kusatsu Onsen from Tokyo?
About three hours by car each way. By train and bus it takes about as long, with a change.
Can I visit Kusatsu Onsen as a day trip from Tokyo?
Yes, but it is a long day. One night in a ryokan is the best way to enjoy Kusatsu.
What is yumomi?
The traditional way of cooling Kusatsu's very hot water, by stirring it with long wooden boards while singing. You can watch it at the Netsunoyu hall beside Yubatake.
Can I bathe with tattoos in Kusatsu?
Some baths still refuse visible tattoos, while others accept them or offer private baths. Check with each bath or inn before going.