Guides · written from the road

Guides to Tokyo and the days out around it

Everything here is written from journeys actually driven, which is why some of it argues against booking a car. The train beats a chauffeur to Shibuya, the autumn colour at Lake Chuzenji is finished by late November, and Daikoku closes its gate when the police decide it is full. Knowing that before you go is worth more than a page that promises everything.

Tokyo winter illumination, the champagne gold lights of Marunouchi Nakadori seen from a car window

Tokyo's winter illuminations, seen properly, in one evening

The Tokyo winter illuminations from Marunouchi to Roppongi, when each one opens, and why a car turns four displays in one evening into something you can actually do.

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Narita to Tokyo: private car or train?

How to get from Narita Airport to Tokyo: the private car, the N'EX train, the Skyliner and the bus compared, with times, effort and who each suits best.

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How to get to Mt Fuji from Tokyo

How to visit Mt Fuji from Tokyo: the train and bus routes, the best viewpoints, when to go for clear views, and why many travellers choose a private car.

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Mt Fuji reflected in Lake Kawaguchiko on a clear day

Lake Kawaguchiko: a full day at Mt Fuji's classic lake

A full-day Lake Kawaguchiko trip from Tokyo: what you see, when Fuji reflects on the water, how the ten hours work, and why one lake beats trying to see all five.

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The Chureito Pagoda with Mt Fuji rising behind it

Chureito Pagoda: the iconic Mt Fuji photo, in a day

A full-day Chureito Pagoda trip from Tokyo: the famous five-story pagoda and Mt Fuji view, the climb, the best season, and how it pairs with Lake Kawaguchiko in ten hours.

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Thatched houses and clear ponds at Oshino Hakkai with Mt Fuji behind

Oshino Hakkai: Mt Fuji's spring-water village, in a day

A full-day Oshino Hakkai trip from Tokyo: the eight spring-fed ponds and thatched village at the foot of Mt Fuji, what to see, and how it pairs with Lake Kawaguchiko in ten hours.

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A sea of clouds seen from high on Mt Fuji near the Fifth Station

The Fuji Fifth Station: up the mountain, in a day

A full-day Fuji Fifth Station trip from Tokyo: driving up the Subaru Line above the tree line, when it is open, what to expect, and why it needs a flexible plan.

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The red torii gate on Lake Ashi at Hakone with the hills behind

Mt Fuji and Hakone: mountain views and onsen, in a day

A full-day Mt Fuji and Hakone trip from Tokyo: Fuji views, Lake Ashi and its torii gate, the onsen valley, what fits in ten hours, and why a private car makes it work.

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Aerial view of Daikoku Junction and its looping ramps, with Daikoku Parking Area inside the expressway interchange in Yokohama

How to visit Daikoku Parking Area without a car

Daikoku PA sits inside the Tokyo expressway network, so you cannot walk, cycle or take a train there. Here is what actually works, what the meets are really like, when the entrance closes, and how to behave.

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