The Hakone Open-Air Museum and the pirate ships of Lake Ashi
Hakone is the classic escape from Tokyo: hot springs, a volcanic valley, a mountain lake with Mt Fuji behind it. Two of its highlights surprise first time visitors the most: a sculpture park on a green hillside with a whole pavilion of Picasso, and a lake crossed by full size replica sailing ships.
The Hakone Open-Air Museum
Opened in 1969 as Japan's first open-air museum, it sets more than a hundred modern sculptures, by artists such as Henry Moore and Rodin, across lawns with mountain views. Inside, the Picasso Pavilion holds hundreds of his works, and a tower of stained glass glows from within. There is a hot spring footbath to rest your feet halfway. Allow about two hours.
The pirate ships of Lake Ashi
The sightseeing cruise on Lake Ashi runs between Togendai at the northern end and Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone in the south, in boats dressed as old sailing ships. The crossing takes about twenty five to forty minutes, and on clear days, mostly in the morning and in the cold months, Mt Fuji rises above the far shore.
Hakone Shrine and Owakudani
From Moto-Hakone, the red torii of Hakone Shrine stands in the water, one of the most photographed gates in Japan; early morning is the time to avoid the queue for photographs. Owakudani is a steaming volcanic valley famous for black eggs boiled in the hot springs. Its ropeway sometimes closes when volcanic activity rises, so check before you go.
The Hakone loop, or a car
Many visitors do the Hakone loop with a pass: mountain train, cable car, ropeway, boat and bus, changing five times. It is fun, but slow at busy times with long queues for the ropeway. By car you can take the sights in the order the weather suggests, put Fuji first if the morning is clear, and leave out what is closed.
By car, and the price
Hakone is about an hour and a half from central Tokyo by car. Our Hakone private tour, with the Open-Air Museum, a Lake Ashi cruise and the shrine, takes about ten hours from your Tokyo hotel, from ¥157,500 for the Toyota Alphard with up to four guests, tolls, parking and fuel included. Your chauffeur can speak English, Italian, Spanish, French or Japanese, at the same price.
Frequently asked questions
How long do you need at the Hakone Open-Air Museum?
About two hours to see the sculpture park and the Picasso Pavilion at an easy pace.
How long is the Lake Ashi pirate ship cruise?
About twenty five to forty minutes, depending on the route between Togendai, Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone.
Can you see Mt Fuji from Lake Ashi?
Yes, on clear days, most often in the morning and in the cold, dry months.
Is a car better than the Hakone Free Pass?
The pass is good value for the loop, but involves several changes and queues. A car lets you choose the order, follow the weather and skip anything closed.